Crockpot Pulled Pork (Tender, Smoky and Practically Hands Off)

Tom has been threatening to buy a smoker for about fifteen years. Each spring he circles one in a catalog, and each spring I point at the slow cooker on the counter and remind him which pulled pork the kids actually ask for. This is the pot I carry to graduation parties and summer cookouts, and the one I make when all three kids roll in for a long weekend with spouses and grandkids in tow. It is also what I make on plain old weeknights when I want leftovers for days.

The method could not be simpler. A hefty pork shoulder gets coated in a sweet, smoky rub, settled onto sliced onions with a little cider vinegar and broth, and left to cook all day. After a long 8 to 10 hours on LOW, or a quicker 5 to 6 on HIGH, it is so tender it collapses when a fork comes near. Mix the shredded meat with a bit of the cooking liquid and your go to barbecue sauce, spoon it onto soft rolls and call everyone to the table.

No wood chips, no coals, no standing over a grill in the heat. You spend a few minutes in the morning and come home to a pot of juicy, deeply seasoned pork. It freezes so well that I nearly always cook the full amount, even when it is just the two of us.

Why this recipe works

• The perfect cut for the job. Shoulder is marbled with fat and full of connective tissue that slowly melts over a long cook, so the meat stays moist and pulls apart easily.
• A rub with real flavor. Smoked paprika, brown sugar, garlic and chili powder give the pork that deep barbecue taste you would expect from hours over a fire.
• Bright acidity. A splash of cider vinegar cuts through the rich meat and the sweet sauce, so the finished pork never tastes heavy.
• Juices back in the pot. Mixing some of the defatted cooking liquid into the shredded meat keeps it moist for hours on a buffet table.
• Sauce goes in last. Holding back most of the barbecue sauce until after shredding keeps it from burning on the sides of the crock and keeps its flavor fresh.

Ingredients you’ll need

A few pantry spices and some everyday staples are all it takes. The recipe card below lists every amount.

• Boneless pork shoulder, sometimes sold as pork butt or Boston butt
• Brown sugar, smoked paprika, chili powder, onion powder, garlic powder, cumin and dry mustard
• Kosher salt and black pepper
• A large yellow onion
• Apple cider vinegar
• Low sodium chicken broth
• Worcestershire sauce
• A barbecue sauce you love
• Soft burger buns or slider rolls

Ingredient notes and smart substitutions

Pork shoulder

Aim for a boneless shoulder roast somewhere between 4 and 5 pounds. The label might say pork butt or Boston butt, and in spite of that name, it is cut from the top of the front shoulder. Steer clear of pork loin and tenderloin, which are much too lean and end up dry and crumbly after hours in the pot. A bone in shoulder is wonderful as well. Plan on about an extra hour, and slide the bone out before you shred.

Smoked paprika

Here is where the smoky taste comes from. Plain sweet paprika will do in a pinch, but then the pork ends up tasting closer to pot roast than barbecue. For folks who like heat, try equal parts smoked paprika and chipotle chili powder.

Apple cider vinegar

Just a little vinegar adds a soft tang that wakes up the rich pork. White vinegar can fill in, though it tastes sharper. If you are cooking for little ones, swap half the vinegar for apple juice for a gentler, sweeter pot.

Barbecue sauce

Pick the sauce your family likes best, whether it is thick and sweet, thin and vinegary in the Carolina tradition, or something with a spicy bite. I always set an extra bottle on the table so people can add as much as they please.

Brown sugar

Either light or dark brown sugar works fine. It helps the rub stick and gets a little caramelized where the pork touches the hot walls of the crock. If you like your pork less sweet, use just 1 tablespoon and let the sauce add sweetness at the end.

Chicken broth

Broth lends a savory note and enough liquid to create some steam. Beef broth or plain water work too. For a sweeter, old timey version, try a can of root beer or cola instead.

How to make it

Step 1. Mix the dry rub

Combine the smoked paprika, brown sugar, chili powder, onion powder, garlic powder, dry mustard, cumin, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Use your fingertips to crush any clumps of sugar so the mixture is uniform.

Step 2. Season the pork

Dry the pork with paper towels. If the butcher tied it with twine, keep the twine on for now. Massage the rub over the whole roast, working it into every side and every little fold. Do not hold any back. A shoulder this size can handle a lot of seasoning, and part of the rub melts into the juices and seasons them as well.

Step 3. Build the base

Spread the onion slices across the bottom of a slow cooker that holds at least 6 quarts. Add the cider vinegar, broth and Worcestershire. Lay the pork over the onions with the fat cap facing up, so it bastes the meat as it renders.

Step 4. Cover and walk away

Put the lid on and let it go 8 to 10 hours with the dial on LOW. On HIGH it needs 5 to 6 hours. You will know it is ready when the meat gives way with barely a nudge. If you like to use a thermometer, look for about 195F to 205F in the center of the thickest part. Pork is safe at 145F, but shoulder needs to climb much higher before it turns truly soft.

Some days I start the pork before my morning walk, and by lunchtime the whole house smells like a county fair. Tom wanders through the kitchen every hour asking if it is done yet. It never is, and he knows it.

Step 5. Shred the meat

Move the pork to a big cutting board or a rimmed sheet pan and give it 10 minutes to rest. Snip off any twine, then pull the meat apart with two forks, tossing aside any big chunks of fat. While it rests, pour the cooking liquid through a strainer and skim away the fat that rises to the surface.

Step 6. Sauce and serve

Put the shredded meat back in the crock. Add roughly 1/2 cup of the defatted juices and 1 cup of barbecue sauce, stir, then taste and keep adding a little more of either until it is as moist and saucy as you want. Switch the cooker to WARM and let the pork sit for 15 minutes to soak up the flavors. Pile it onto toasted buns and pass more sauce at the table.

Step 7. Add crispy bits (optional)

You can skip this, but it is my favorite little upgrade when I have a few spare minutes. Spread a layer of the sauced pork on a rimmed sheet pan and slide it beneath the broiler for 3 to 5 minutes, keeping a close eye on it, until the tips char and crisp. Fold those crunchy pieces back into the pot so you get soft, juicy meat with caramelized bits in every bite.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Buying the wrong cut. Lean loin and tenderloin look appealing at the store, but they turn dry and tough in a slow cooker. Only shoulder gives you those juicy shreds.
• Too much liquid. About a cup in total is all you need. The meat gives off plenty of its own juices, and a flood of liquid rinses the rub right off.
• Rushing the shredding. When the pork still fights your fork, it needs more time. Put the lid back on and check again in an hour.
• Leaving the fat in. A thick layer of grease floats on top of the cooking liquid. Skim it off so the finished pork tastes rich rather than oily.
• Saucing too soon. Barbecue sauce is full of sugar and can burn along the edges of the crock over a long day. Stir in most of it once the meat is shredded.

Make ahead and storage

Make ahead. You can rub the pork as much as 24 hours early. Wrap it well and keep it in the refrigerator, and the seasoning will soak in even deeper overnight. For a party, cook the pork 1 or 2 days in advance, chill it in its juices and rewarm it for 2 to 3 hours with the slow cooker set on LOW.

Fridge. Keep leftover pork in sealed containers with a spoonful or two of the juices for up to 4 days.

Freezer. Once it cools, divide the pork into freezer bags with a little of the cooking liquid, squeeze out the air and freeze them flat for up to 3 months. I portion it into 2 cup bags, which is perfect for a fast supper for Tom and me.

Reheating. Let frozen pork thaw in the refrigerator overnight. Rewarm it with a splash of broth or saved juices in a lidded skillet set over medium low heat, or heat it in the microwave in short rounds, stirring in between.

Variations

• Carnitas night. Lay the shredded pork on a sheet pan, spoon a little juice over it and broil 3 to 5 minutes until crisp at the edges. Tuck it into warm tortillas.
• Carolina style. Leave out the thick sauce and toss the meat with cider vinegar, a spoonful of brown sugar and red pepper flakes. Pile coleslaw on top.
• Island style. Use pineapple juice in place of the broth then pile it onto sweet rolls topped with grilled pineapple slices.
• Chipotle kick. Stir two chopped chipotles in adobo into the crock for smoky heat.
• Root beer pork. Pour in a can of root beer instead of broth for a sweet, nostalgic flavor that grandkids go crazy for.

What to serve with it

Pulled pork sandwiches call for all the cookout favorites. In our family that starts with a big bowl of creamy coleslaw, and plenty of us pile it right on the sandwich. Baked beans, sweet corn and a dish of baked mac and cheese make it a feast. For something lighter, spoon the pork onto a split baked potato or a pile of salad greens with quick pickled red onions. When the whole crew is here, I leave the pork in the slow cooker on WARM next to a basket of rolls, a bowl of slaw, a jar of pickles and two or three sauces, and everyone builds a plate their own way. Any leftovers turn into nachos, quesadillas, pizza toppings or a skillet breakfast hash with a runny egg.